Monday, 31 March 2008

A no-food-shopping weekend


I've often wondered how long we could last for food without going to the shops. Of course there are things you'd run out of pretty quickly like fresh milk, fruit and vegetables but if you had a reasonably well-stocked storecupoard and freezer I reckon you could easily survive a week.

Anyway I managed it for a couple of days over the weekend. My husband was away, and I was working on the book so I thought I'd see how I got on. (I didn't plan it ahead so I didn't stock up beforehand, honest!)

Here's what I ate:

Friday
Late back from London so I skipped supper and had a banana. Easy.

Saturday

Breakfast
A glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, and stewed plums with Greek yoghurt and granola.

Mid morning
A leftover croissant, split and toasted

Lunch
A bit of a chilli-fest. Scrambled eggs with chillies, spring onions and coriander and a warm tortilla, sweet chilli sauce

Dinner
Leftover chicken stew

Sunday breakfast
Same as Saturday's

Lunch
Feta cheese and red pepper tapenade quesadillas. with a chunk of cucumber.

Supper
Linguine with Stilton and onion, a pear

I'm particularly pleased with the linguine and Stilton invention which was made from a (still in date) piece of Stilton I found at the back of the fridge. Funny though how it doesn't sound as glamourous as Gorgonzola. But it's cheaper and just as good. Here's the recipe:

Linguine with Stilton and onion

Serves 1

1 1/2 tbsp olive oil or butter
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
100g linguine or spaghetti
40g Stilton or other blue cheese, crumbled
1 tbsp double or whipping cream, crème fraiche or Greek yoghurt
2 heaped tbsp finely chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grated Grana Padano or Parmesan to serve (optional but nice)

Heat a frying pan, add the oil or butter then once it’s melted tip in the onion, stir and leave over a low heat to fry. Pour a kettle of boiling water into a large saucepan, bring back to the boil, add salt, then add the pasta, stir and cook for the time recommended on the pack. Before you drain the linguine set aside half a cup of the boiling water. Add 3 tbsp of water to the onion and tip in the crumbled cheese. Leave over a low heat to melt then stir in the cream or yoghurt (I used yoghurt which was fine) Drain the pasta and add to the pan along with the parsley and toss well together, adding a splash more water if you need it. Season generously with black pepper. Spoon into a warm bowl and sprinkle over some grated Grana Padano or Parmesan, if you have some. Some dark leafy green salad would be a good accompaniment.

Friday, 28 March 2008

Why I don't like pressure cookers

I forgot to tell you - I acquired a pressure cooker. A reasonable deal on Amazon - 50% off - but . . .

It's just as bad as they always used to be, except marginally less scary.

Now you may well have a pressure cooker and love it to bits but here's why I don't like them.

I've made two things with it, a chicken stock and some cannelini beans and both would have been better if I'd made them the conventional way.

The handbook advised me to cook my chicken carcasses for 40 (yes, forty) minutes which seemed an incredibly long time but as I hadn't used it before I took their word for it. Of course it came out cloudy and slightly bitter-tasting. Better when it was skimmed but I ended up - most unfrugally - throwing it away.

The beans, I was told, didn't have to be pre-soaked, simply submerged in boiling water for an hour which seemed like a good time-saving notion but it was far from clear how long they needed to be cooked.

The handbook didn't mention them. It recommended 5 minutes for haricot beans, 10 minutes for small butter beans and 15 for kidney beans to which cannelini beans are related. I decided to give them 12 and found they'd started to fall apart when I opened the cooker.

I also thought they were less digestible than usual though that may be my imagination or general grumpiness about the whole enterprise.

I'll give it another go but if all else fails at least I've got a large saucepan for cooking pasta.

Unless you're pulse-mad and cook them a couple times a week from scratch I wouldn't bother.

Thursday, 27 March 2008

Why I love dried limes

Shopping splurge vindicated! Well, almost. I made this fantastic Iranian-style chicken stew last night with half of the fresh herbs and the dried limes I bought. It was loosely based on a recipe in Sally Butcher's Persia in Peckham, the book I told you about yesterday but since I seem to have got fixated on lamb lately I used chicken thighs instead and went off on a tangent from there.

The essential ingredient is dried limes which is one of those addictive ingredients that you can't stop craving once you discover them. They're unprepossessing little brown husks which you pierce then pop in a chicken soup or chicken or lamb stew to release their exotic musky fragrance and sweet-sour lemon flavour.

If you feel a bit nervous about the idea imagine them with handfuls of fresh herbs including stacks of the equally addictive coriander. It's a great dish to serve for adventurous been-everywhere-eaten-everything friends. I've posted the recipe on my student website beyondbakedbeans.com today.

Incidentally, I found a really good guide to Iranian food on the American food website Chow you might enjoy reading here

Wednesday, 26 March 2008

A far from frugal shop

Confession time. Last night I had a far from frugal shopping spree - the equivalent of a dieter having a couple of slices of chocolate cake or a teetotaller falling off the wagon. But it's a temptation to which any foodie is prone.

I spent £21.11 ($42.31) at the Bristol Sweet Mart

I'd been looking forward to going there since I found out about it a couple of months ago. Although it sounds like an Asian sweet shop it is in fact a fabulous Aladdins cave of a grocers with every type of herb, pickle and spice you could possibly want.

I went with a purpose which was to stock up on some of the ingredients required to cook from a mouthwatering book called Persia in Peckham, whose recipes I've been meaning to try for a while. But, of course, I couldn't resist the other stuff, most of which was a good deal cheaper than it would have been elsewhere. (But obviously not in the sense that I wouldn't have otherwise bought it)

This is what I brought home: fresh bunches of parsley, coriander and spinach. And basil (only 49p!) Dried limes (one of my favourite seasonings). Tahini, tamarind, harissa, sweet chilli sauce, white kidney beans, a ground coriander and cumin mix, green cardamoms, turmeric, dried mint and dill, barberries from Iran (have always wanted to try them but definitely unnecessary), a chai tea mix for our eldest daughter, some Hyderabadi mixed pickle for my husband and a pack of cardamom tea for me (Heaven with dark chocolate. I tried it last night)

Now I know that most of this stuff will keep - apart from the fresh herbs - and that it would be ridiculously easy to spend this amount in a high street pizza joint but it isn't frugal by any stretch of the imagination.

What I should have done was go with a shopping list for a specific recipe rather than try to source any ingredient I might possibly need. And not go shopping when I was hungry - always a mistake.

Still, some exotic meals to come, hopefully. Will let you know how I get on.

ps If you want to be tempted too the Bristol Street Mart is at 78-82 St Mark's Road in Easton. Apparently Ainsley Harriott went there the other day, the owner told me proudly!

Tuesday, 25 March 2008

Now Jamie's cutting back

A press release from Jamie Oliver's (or possibly Sainsbury's) people dropped in my inbox to announce that Jamie would be fronting a new 'Feed your Family for a Fiver' drive. He's a good bloke, Jamie, but you have to admit it's a bit ironic being paid 1 or 2 million pounds, whatever it is by Sainsbury's, to tell us how to survive on a shoestring.

And Sainsbury's could presumably have lowered their prices at any time to help the cash-strapped families they're suddenly so concerned about. As I point out on my student website beyondbakedbeans today, take a look at some of the other prices they're charging for fresh ingredients. 99p for a cucumber! You have to be joking.

So on the one hand we have one millionaire celebrity chef (Jamie) telling us to tighten our belts while another (Delia) tells us to go out and spend, spend, spend to save time. It's a bit like Labour turning out to be the party of big business and the Tories turning all touchy-feely and green.

It's a topsy-turvy world we live in.

Monday, 24 March 2008

Easter leftovers

We've been away for a couple of days over Easter so we don't have any leftovers to finish up. But this is the kind of weekend that generates them so I'm wondering what I would do if I had.

First turkey, which is now almost as popular an Easter meal as a Christmas one. The most helpful approach, I find, is to divide the leftovers into three categories - white meat, brown meat and the carcass.

White meat's not the problem. Everybody loves it - it eats well cold: in sandwiches or in salads.

Brown meat (the kind you get on legs and thighs and on the underside of the carcass) I find needs to be cooked up into something else - a pasta bake or a pilau or saved for a soup or soupy stew. Which is where your third component comes in - the carcass - which you should, if you're feeling truly frugal, use to make a stock. (Or freeze until you have several cooked carcasses then make a big batch)

The key things to remember are to cover the bones with cold rather than hot water which will make the stock cloudy, to skim it once you've brought it to the boil (again to keep it clear) and to cook it slowly so that you don't extract the more bitter compounds from the bones. Then cool it, refrigerate it and skim it. That may sound like quite a palaver but it's a routine that becomes familiar and it's worth it for a really great tasting base for soups, stews and risottos.

The only thing I don't do is pick the meat off the carcass once it's boiled. It's simply overcooked by then and all the taste and texture has gone out of it. If you've saved some of the leftover turkey meat for a soup add it at the last minute. Heat it through thoroughly, yes, but don't cook it for longer than you need because it's been cooked already.

The best use, I think for leftover lamb is a middle-eastern style pilaf with dried apricots and nuts. Again don't re-cook the lamb in the stock when you cook the rice. Chop or shred it, fry it in a separate pan (with the nuts, if using) until lightly browned,then fork it through the rice once it's absorbed all the liquid and other flavourings. Turn the heat off, leave a lid on the pan and leave for 5 minutes for the flavours to amalgamate.

Thursday, 20 March 2008

Newspaper-wrapped trout

At the last minute I abandoned the idea of pan-fried trout and almonds because my neighbour downstairs told me that she always used to wrap trout in old newspaper to bake it and that seemed such a brilliantly frugal thing to do I couldn't resist it.

You simple soak a couple of sheets of newspaper in water (two spreads of a tabloid, two pages of a broadsheet) place the trout in the middle, stuff it with lemon and herbs, season it and wrap it in wet newspaper. Then you bake it at a moderate heat (180°C/Gas 4) for 25 minutes. When you unwrap it the skin comes away in one piece leaving you with fabulous, pink succulent flesh

The only downside is that you lose the baking juices which tend to sink into the paper which seems a bit wasteful but you can simply pour over a little extra melted butter and a squeeze of lemon - or of course, make a more elaborate creamy herby sauce.

I was so excited by the whole process I forgot to take a photo but I guess you'll get the picture.

Wednesday, 19 March 2008

Frugal Fish

I suddenly realised I'd got a bit fixated on meat and it was time to turn my attention to fish. (And veggies, obviously. That's next)

My impression up to now is that if you don't like farmed or tinned salmon (which I don't much) and don't like bones and don't want to eat unsustainable fish or fish that's been flown half way round the world there aren't a lot of options. But in a world of rapidly rising food prices fish seems to have stayed relatively stable.

This is what I found in my local Sainsbury's:

A frozen packet of whitefish fillets (Alaskan pollock, apparently) for £1.27 for 520g. OK, that's a long way for it to travel but at least it's sustainable and it's a terrific price. Together with some small frozen prawns (at £1.99 for 300g much cheaper than large ones) it would make a cracking fish pie (see my student website www.beyondbakedbeans.com for a recipe)

Cod steaks at £2.79 for 568g. Oddly if cod is in a block it's cheaper. Fine for chowders. Enough for four.

2 x rainbow trout for £2.81. That's our supper tonight with the leftover almonds from the weekend's couscous.

Boil in bag kippers at 62p for 220g. OK, I don't much like kippers but it's a cheap weekend brunch if you do.

2 salmon steaks on the bone for £2.44 (as with meat anything on the bone tends to be cheaper)

2 pollock fillets for £2.42. Pollock is sustainable. Hurray! But slightly tasteless so needs a garlicky tomatoey or similarly gutsy sauce with it.

220g of 'Seafood Medley'(I hate the word medley) for £2.99 on a two for one offer. Enough to make a seafood salad (with a Thai-ish dressing I suggest) and a pasta sauce.

Scottish rollmops at £1.09 for 260g. Easily enough for one, maybe two. Good with some crusty bread and a cold lager.

Marinated herring at £1.59 for 280g. Great base for a Scandanavian-style herring and potato salad. With dill if you can find some at a reasonable price.

Smoked mackerel at £1.87 for 292g. You could make a decent size batch of paté with this or a filling for a large quiche. Smoked mackerel is a great buy.

So, plenty of reasonably priced options then. And think of the good all that oily fish will do you . . .
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